Decided to torture my TRB1004

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metalchurch
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Post by metalchurch »

Seymour Duncan have some active pups for guitar that were modeled almost too closely to an EMG. The first version "Metal Live Wire" is the one that I have. It's not quite the same as an active EMG, yet its not relative to a passive pup either.

It almost meets the two half way in terms of eq and output. The mids are more pronounced than an EMG is, and I think thats how it resembles a passive, because it's more open and less compressed, yet very quiet.

The SD Blackouts are the 2nd Gen of the Metal Live Wire. The only major difference is the addition of a quick-connect (MLW is hardwired), and it uses 25k pots as opposed to 100k for the MLW. They both require atleast 18v to run the preamp, and I'm not sure if they are capable of an additional 9v of power, totaling 27v.
I'm too scared to try it... :lol:
I was thinking about 18v + a 1/2 dead 9v to see if it has anymore headroom.

The mids of the MLW are almost too much, and I'm able to dial in a better sound if I scoop the mids slightly w/ my preamp.

I really like the different sound that's offered, but they aren't very good at emulating an EMG, there's just no substitute really.
They're a nice alternative to an EMG, and a nice middle of the road between active and passive.

I'm surprised that there isn't already a Bass version of the Blackout on the market, or is this going to be an entirely new design?
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Post by JackANSI »

Well its back from Mark, I've played it. I like it.

Turns out I was sent the wrong diameter sperzels so I'll have to wait a bit longer to call it 'done'.

Dave might have to put up with me switching basses or reordering the set list a bit ;) Cause this thing is getting played a lot, but there are a few songs that still require me to use the 5'er.

Now.. Since I use very light strings, I'm not taxing the springs much at all so the arm is a bit too far away for my liking (and there isn't any more adjustment to be had to get it lower)..

Guitarists: Is it ok to just bend it? what is the method to that? I was think of just spinning a half-dozen nuts on to the shaft, putting in the bench vise and pulling this way and that till I'm there...

This is my first experience with a trem, so excuse the stupid questions/solutions.
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Post by JackANSI »

Crappy cell pic.. I'll get a better pic sometime soon.

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metalchurch
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Post by metalchurch »

Yeah a trem bar can handle alot before it breaks. I've already bent a righty into a lefty w/ no probs.

Is there an adjustment to keep the trem from bottoming out because f the light strings?

After the springs release and get weaker over time, you'll have to re bend your arm to accomidate, but I'm sure you knew that already.

That thing looks fuckin awesome with that Kahler and black hardware. Very nice build Rob! 8) I cant wait to hear it.
If you change up the set list will your drummer get confused? :lol:
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MOONDOGGY
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Post by MOONDOGGY »

I'd heat up the trem bar. I had to make one for my last Kahler. I used brass, which your bar probably is, and it bent easily by hand when heated. I'd put a torch to the threaded part to hide any discoloring of the black finish, but you can always just re-paint it if it messes the bar up.

With the gauge strings you use, you could probably get away with using only one spring in the center position. I may have some different size Kahler springs if you want to experiment with heavier/lighter spring combinations. This would save you from messing up your bar.

Also, does Sperzel make different diameter bass tuner bushings? I was under the impression that all their bass tuners were a smaller diameter. I've had to plug and redrill headstocks to fit them with Sperzels.

Keep more pics coming! It looks awesome!
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VENTGtr
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Post by VENTGtr »

Rob,

At's cool. Came out great.
metalchurch wrote:If you change up the set list will your drummer get confused?
:shock:

Oh no you d'i'n't.
DaveP.

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Post by JackANSI »

Got around to it..

http://www.flickr.com/photos/47348662@N ... 099950482/

on image IMG_0782 you can kinda see how Mark cocked the neck back instead of sinking the bridge. After talking to Mark about how I'm going to be playing it, and what I'm going to be doing in the future to the body, I decided to get it like this for now, then once I make the move on that, get it done then.

To tell you the truth, I actually like the extra room under the strings now... It put my clunky hands in a much better/comfortable position...

I picked ebony for the pickup 'wings'. The stock pickups had mounting wings where they are. Makes it kinda look like nothing was done to it, from a certain distance anyway.

Tone changed a bit, sounds like it comes more from the strings than the wood now, if that makes sense. Just a tad more punch and attack, just a tad less boom.
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bassist_25
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Post by bassist_25 »

I finally got a chance to see this on your MySpace, Rob, and it looks pretty freakin' sweet. Carvin use to offer a Kahler for their basses (Now I'm gettin' all Carvin Guru here :D).
"He's the electric horseman, you better back off!" - old sKool making a reference to the culturally relevant 1979 film.
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Post by JackANSI »

Switched knobs to Hipshot O-Ring knobs in black.


Image


The Tiger/Zebra wood that I used on my 5-er just don't feel/look right on a bass with a trem.

So if anyone is interested, I got some tiger/zebra wood knobs to get rid of ;)
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metalchurch
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Post by metalchurch »

Ribbed....for your pleasure :lol:
They look good though. Where did you find those at?
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Post by JackANSI »

I think it's guitar parts depot. They were about 5$ each.

Double check the source of that image, it's direct from the site I bought them from.
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Post by JackANSI »

I think the new knobs are going to stay.


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metalchurch
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Post by metalchurch »

Cant believe I missed your last post.
How does the Kahler perform on your bass? Are there any 'return to zero' or other quirks about it, or is it pretty smooth?

Thinkin about building a short scale 4 string and I'm thinkin about a Kahler trem, that's why I'm curious. I am pleased with the performance on a guitar, but not being a bass player, and having never owned a bass or anything, I'm in the dark about how good they work.

I think that your TRB turned out very nice! 8) Ilike the black hardware against the natural look of the wood.
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Post by JackANSI »

The only issue I've found so far is its great on dives, returns to perfect tune, but on pulls it stays ever so slightly high (enough to light the red light just to the high side of my tuner, but the green is still lit).

So I just have to remember to dive a bit after pulling and its right on the green again. I've lubed up everything with graph-it-all (nut, bridge rollers, etc).

But its very smooth as far as action. A little wobble on the bar, but from what I gather thats to be expected. The fix is a little teflon tape around the threads.

Brightened up the overall tone a bit, sounds like more of tone is coming from the strings, than the rest of the instrument if that makes sense.

I'm pleased with it. The 35DC full up, a hint of extra bass on the pre, and a tinge of distortion has an almost uncanny resemblance in tone to claypool's sound on Suck On This and Frizzle Fry. Which is one of those tones I've always wanted to have on hand.
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Post by MOONDOGGY »

Rob, did you widen the slots in the nut slightly and add in a little graphite powder? This will do wonders.
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Post by JackANSI »

Actually I went with smaller strings that gave me the same effect as wider slots.
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VENTGtr
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Post by VENTGtr »

This thing is nice. Strings on Rob's basses are much closer to the fretboard
than on any guitar I've owned. It's really cool...Hope it sticks around...
DaveP.

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